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Subscriber Exclusive: Gem of a spiral necklace

This unusual spiral uses an assortment of beads, including gemstones, and is stitched off a right-angle weave core.
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MATERIALS
purple necklace 19 in. (48 cm)

  • 46 8 mm round faceted gemstones (amethyst)
  • 47 5 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, lilac)
  • 6 g 5/0 seed beads (Miyuki 134FR, matte transparent dark topaz AB)
  • 4 g 6/0 seed beads (Toho 421, gold-lustered transparent pink)
  • 8/0 seed beads
    • 6 g color A (Toho 85F, matte metallic plum iris)
    • 6 g color B (Miyuki 301, rose gold luster)<.li>
  • 5 g 11/0 seed beads (Miyuki 4220, Duracoat eggplant)
  • 1 clasp
  • Fireline, 10 lb. test
  • beading needles, #10

green necklace colors

  • 8 mm round faceted gemstones (green turquoise)
  • 5 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, Jet AB)
  • 5/0 seed beads (Miyuki 146FR, matte transparent green AB)
  • 6/0 seed beads (Miyuki 1255, metallic matte dark bronze) 
  • 8/0 seed beads 
    • color A (Miyuki 2006, matte metallic dark bronze) 
    • color B (Matsuno 605, green iris)
  • 11/0 seed beads (Miyuki 4217, Duracoat seafoam)
5_BNBH0416_AFIGURES
Figure 1
Click on images to enlarge.

Spiral
1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up a color A 8/0 seed bead, two color B 8/0 seed beads, a 5/0 seed bead, three 11/0 seed beads, four 8 mm round gemstones, a 5 mm bicone crystal, a 6/0 seed bead, two Bs, and three 11/0s. Sew through the beads again to form a ring, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail and exiting the first A (FIGURE 1, a–b).

NOTE: If your 11/0s slip inside the 5/0, add a B between the 11/0s and the 5/0 in the ring just completed and for the remainder of the beadwork. Also, it is very important that you keep the beadwork in the position as illustrated and not flip the beadwork as the spiral is worked.

2. Working in right-angle weave (RAW), pick up three As, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (b–c). Retrace the thread path (not shown in the figure for clarity), and continue through the next two As (c–d).

3. Pick up three As, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (d–e). Retrace the thread path (not shown in the figure for clarity).

4_BNBH0416_AFIGURES
Figure 2
4. Work a counterclockwise loop: Pick up three 11/0s, two Bs, a 6/0, a crystal, and a gemstone, and sew through the adjacent three gemstones in the previous ring (FIGURE 2, a–b). Pick up three 11/0s, a 5/0, and two Bs, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (b–c), using a tight tension. Continue through the next two As (c–d). Make sure this loop is positioned on top of the previous loop.
3_BNBH0416_AFIGURES
Figure 3

5. Work as in step 3 to add three As (FIGURE 3, a–b).

6. Work a clockwise loop: Pick up two Bs, a 5/0, and three 11/0s, and sew through the last three gemstones added (b–c). Pick up a gemstone, a crystal, a 6/0, two Bs, and three 11/0s, and sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step (c–d). Continue through the next two As (d–e). Make sure this loop is positioned on top of the previous loop.

7. Repeat steps 3–6 for approximately 8 in. (20 cm), skipping step 5 before the last loop of beads is added, and reserving four gemstones for the neck straps. Retrace the thread path through the last loop of beads added, and end the working thread and tail.

6_BNBH0416_AFIGURES
Figure 4

Neck strap
1. On the just-completed end of the spiral, add 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread, exiting the crystal in the last loop, with the needle pointing toward the gemstone. Work the neck strap as follows:

  • Pick up five 11/0s, an A, five 11/0s, an A, a B, a 6/0, a crystal, a 5/0, a gemstone, a 5/0, a crystal, a 6/0, a B, and an A. Pick up this same pattern of beads again. 
  • Pick up a repeating pattern of five 11/0s and an A three times.
  • Pick up half of the clasp, and sew back through the last A added (FIGURE 4, a–b)
  • Pick up five 11/0s, and sew through the adjacent five 11/0s, A, and the clasp (b–c). Retrace the thread path of the connection (not shown in the figure for clarity), and continue through the five 11/0s added in this step and the next A (c–d).  
  • Pick up five 11/0s, an A, and five 11/0s, skip the next 11 beads, and sew through the following 11 beads. Repeat this stitch once more.
  • Pick up five 11/0s, an A, and five 11/0s, sew through the next four gemstones in the last loop of the spiral, and end the thread.
  • 2. Add 2 ft. (61 cm) of thread to the other end of the spiral, exiting the three 11/0s before the gemstone in the last loop, with the needle pointing toward the gemstone. Work the second strap as in step 1.

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