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Abbey window pendant

Use netting, right-angle weave, and crystals to create a window inspired pendant. 
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SUPPLIES

purple/bronze pendant 2½ in. (6.4 cm)

  • 7 SS40 (8.412–8.672 mm) round rhinestone chatons (Swarovski #1028, amethyst; www.dreamtimecreations.com)
  • 100–110 2 mm round beads (antiqued copper)
  • 1 g 11/0 seed beads (Miyuki 462, metallic gold iris)
  • 3 g 15/0 seed beads (Toho 459, gold lustered dark topaz)
  • Fireline, 6 lb. test
  • beading needles, #12 or #13

blue/silver pendant colors

  • SS45 (9.852-10.187 mm) round rhinestone chatons
  • 2 mm round beads (silver plated)
  • 11/0 seed beads (Toho 711, nickel-plated silver)
  • 15/0 seed beads (Toho 711, nickel-plated silver)

INSTRUCTIONS

11_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 1
10_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 2

This pendant can be made with either SS40 or SS45 round rhinestone chatons. (The purple/bronze pendant features SS40, and the blue/silver pendant uses SS45.) Tips are provided below for adjusting bead counts based on your chaton size. The illustrations are shown using SS40 chatons.

Outer chatons
1. On 30 in. (76 cm) of thread, pick up 12 15/0 seed beads.  Tie the beads into a ring with a square knot, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the first 15/0 in the ring.

2. Pick up five 15/0s. Skip a 15/0 in the ring, and sew through the following 15/0 to form a loop (FIGURE 1, a–b). Repeat this stitch five times to complete the round, making a total of six loops (b–c). Sew through the first three 15/0s in the first loop to exit the center 15/0 (c–d).

3. Pick up three 15/0s. Sew through the 15/0 your thread exited at the start of this step, sewing in the same direction, to form a picot (FIGURE 2, a–b). Sew through the following 15/0s as shown to exit the center 15/0 in the next loop (b–c). Repeat these stitches five times to add a picot to each loop, and sew through the beadwork to exit the center 15/0 in the first picot (c–d).

9_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 3
4. If you are using SS40 chatons, pick up two 15/0s, and sew through the center 15/0 in the next picot (FIGURE 3, a–b). (If you are using SS45 chatons, pick up three 15/0s between the picots.) Repeat this stitch five times to complete the round (b–c), pulling gently on the thread to begin forming a cup shape, but do not tighten. Sew through the first two 15/0s added in this step (c–d).

NOTE Make sure you are always sewing through the center 15/0 of each picot, as the picots may be tipped to one side.
8_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 4
7_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 5
5. Place a chaton face up in your beadwork, so that the point of the chaton exits the starting ring of 12 15/0s. Pull the thread tight to cinch the last round to the face of the chaton (FIGURE 4).

NOTE If you are using SS45 chatons and have thread showing between the 15/0s in the last round, return to step 4, and try adding four 15/0s between the picots instead of three, or alternate three and four 15/0s between picots. 

Retrace the thread path of the last round, tying a few half-hitch knots as you go. Turn your work over, and sew through the beadwork to exit the center 15/0 in one of the loops made in step 2 (FIGURE 5, point a).
6. Pick up a 15/0, a 2 mm round bead, and a 15/0, and sew through the center 15/0 in the next loop (a–b). Repeat this stitch five times to complete the round, and sew through the first 15/0 and 2 mm added in this step (b–c).
6_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 6

7. If using SS40 chatons, pick up a 15/0, a 2 mm, and a 15/0, and sew through the next 2 mm (FIGURE 6, a–b). Repeat this stitch five times to complete the round (b–c), and retrace the thread path. Your bezeled chaton should now resemble a hexagon with six sides and a 2 mm at each corner. End the working thread and tail.
If using SS45 chatons, work as above for a few stitches. If you have a lot of thread showing, try picking up two 15/0s, a 2 mm, and two 15/0s for each stitch.

8. Make a total of six outer chatons.

Center chaton
Work as in steps 1–6 of “Outer chatons,” and end the working thread and tail. The center chaton will be slightly smaller than the others.

5_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 7

Connections
1. Add a comfortable length of thread to an outer chaton, exiting a corner 2 mm in a clockwise direction. Place another outer chaton next to this one, aligning the corner 2 mms. 

2. Work a join with three right-angle weave (RAW) stitches:

  • Pick up an 11/0 seed bead, and sew up through the corresponding corner 2 mm of the new outer chaton. Pick up a 2 mm, and sew down through the corner 2 mm of the first outer chaton. Continue through the first 11/0 added (FIGURE 7, a–b).
  • Sew through the 2 mm between the corner 2 mms of the new outer chaton, pick up an 11/0, and sew through the corresponding 2 mm of the first outer chaton. Continue through the 11/0 added in the previous stitch, the 2 mm of the new outer chaton, and the 11/0 just added (b–c).
    Sew through the next corner 2 mm of the first outer chaton, pick up a 2 mm, and sew through the corresponding corner 2 mm of the new outer chaton. Con-tinue through the 11/0 added in the previous stitch, the corner 2 mm of the first outer chaton, and the 2 mm just added (c–d). Sew clockwise through the beadwork to exit the next corner 2 mm of the new outer chaton (d–e).

3. Work as in step 2 to join all six outer chatons into a ring, ending and adding thread as needed. Be sure to join the last chaton to the first. Exit a connecting 2 mm — that is, one of the 2 mms added in the connecting RAW stitches — on the inside of the ring.

4_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 8
2_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 9
4. Place the center chaton inside the ring so that its 2 mms fall between the connecting 2 mms. Pick up a 15/0, sew through the next 2 mm of the center chaton, pick up a 15/0, and sew through the following connecting 2 mm (FIGURE 8, a–b). Repeat these stitches five times around the center chaton (b–c), and retrace the thread path of the entire connection. Sew through the beadwork to exit a connecting 2 mm on the outside of the ring as shown (FIGURE 9, point a).
13_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 10

Bail
The instructions are for the bail shown on the purple/bronze pendant.
1. Using 11/0s, work a row of three right-angle weave (RAW) stitches as follows:

  • Pick up three 11/0s and sew through the 2 mm to form a RAW stitch. Continue through the three 11/0s just added (FIGURE 9, a–b).
  • Work a modified RAW stitch: Sew through the nearest 15/0 and 2 mm. Pick up an 11/0, and sew through the last 11/0 added in the previous stitch (FIGURE 10, a–b). Retrace the thread path of the stitch (not shown in illustration for clarity), and sew through the next 2 mm and 11/0 (b–c).
  • Pick up an 11/0, and sew through the nearest 2 mm and 15/0. Retrace the thread path of the stitch (not shown for clarity), and continue through the next 11/0 (c–d).
2. Using 11/0s and working off the three RAW stitches completed in step 1, work a strip of RAW that is three stitches wide and long enough to wrap around the necklace of your choice. End and add thread as needed. Fold the strip to the back of the pendant, and stitch the last row of RAW to the first row to form the bail.
12_BNBK0216_AFIGURES
FIGURE 11

3. Embellish the bail as follows, working from the back of the bail to the front for the first column of embellishment, from the front to the back for the second column, and so on:

  • Exit the last 11/0 along the left edge of the bail. Pick up a 15/0, and sew through the next edge 11/0. Repeat this stitch for the entire edge (FIGURE 11, a–b).
  • Sew through the adjacent 11/0 (b–c). Pick up a 15/0, and sew through the next 11/0 in the column. Repeat this stitch for the entire column (c–d).
  • Using 2 mms instead of 15/0s, embellish the center column as you did the previous column (e–f).
  • Using 15/0s, embellish the next column as you did the center column (g–h).
  • Using 15/0s, embellish the right edge as you did the left edge (i–j).
End the working thread.

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