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Peytwist: Double-column seam

Peyote with a twist — not crochet (Peytwist, for short) is a stitch developed by Gerlinde Lenz. It offers two different techniques: the single-column seam (odd number of beads in the circumference) and double-column seam (even number of beads in the circumference). Each technique starts with a flat even-count strip of peyote-stitched beadwork. The width and number of rows in the starter strip can vary between designs.
Double-column seam

Starter strip

On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop bead, leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Pick up the beads for row 1 and 2 following the desired pattern. Working in flat even-count peyote stitch, continue adding the number of rows needed for the starter strip called out in your pattern but do not add the last bead in the last row. 

Joining the strip 

1. Position your beadwork with the tail in the upper right-hand corner and your working thread on the lower right of the strip. 

2. With the working thread and leaving the beadwork flat, cross over the beadwork diagonally, and sew through the bead in the upper left-hand corner, with your needle pointing toward the opposite edge (FIGURE 1, a–b). Cross back over the beadwork, and sew through the end up-bead in the lower right-hand corner (b–c). The top left corner bead will fit into the remaining open space of the last row to complete that row. Tighten the beadwork to curve the corners upward and bring them together. 

Turn the beadwork so the tail is now positioned downward and the working thread is still exiting the bead outlined in red (FIGURE 2). The two columns of darker colored beads are your seam beads. 

Pey Twist Double Column Fig 1
Pey Twist Double Column Fig 2


Pey Twist Double Column Fig 3


3. Sew up through the adjacent bead (FIGURE 3, outlined in blue and shown slightly out of position for thread path clarity) and the adjacent bead above (FIGURE 3, outlined in green) that fit into the open space of the last row.

This will be your starting point to begin the next row. 

Adding rows 

You will now begin working rows of peyote stitch along the top edge of the tube. When adding rows that go left, the beads will be added as you move up toward the point of the beadwork. When adding rows that go right, the beads will be added as you move down toward the V in the beadwork. As you finish the row heading downward, you will attach it to the seam beads.

1. Work the next row in peyote stitch to the left (or upward) following the desired pattern: Pick up a bead, and sew through the next bead. Continue repeating this stitch until you complete the row, sewing through the bead at the tip for the last stitch (FIGURE 4).

2. Work the next row in peyote stitch to the right (or downward) following the desired pattern (FIGURE 5).

Pey Twist Double Column Fig 4
Pey Twist Double Column Fig 5


Pey Twist Double Column Fig 6

3. To work the double-column seam turn: If you look at the beads near the V in the beadwork, you will notice the bead your thread is exiting is near two seam beads (FIGURE 6, outlined in red). Sew through the seam bead that is slightly above the bead your thread is exiting (FIGURE 6, a–b).

The bead your thread is exiting is sitting adjacent to two seam beads in the column below (FIGURE 6, outlined in blue). Sew down through the lower bead and up through the upper bead (b–c).

Continue back up through the adjacent seam bead in the column above you just sewed through (c–d). This gets you in position to start the next row.

4. Continue working as in steps 1–3, following the desired pattern for the desired length. End and add thread as needed.

Pey Twist Photo A
1. To end the rope, fill in the V area by working additional rows as needed following the established pattern, but work one stitch fewer per row, until you reach the end.

2. Sew through the up-beads at the end of the rope to draw them into a ring, and retrace the thread path to tighten.

3. Pick up five beads, and sew through the opposite bead in the ring to form a loop. Continue back through the beads just added and the bead your thread exited at the start of this step, going in the same direction (PHOTO A). Retrace the thread path through the loop, and end the working thread.

4. Remove the stop bead from the tail. Work as before to add one more downward row, then work to fill in the V area as before and repeat step 3. End the tail. 

5. Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to the loop on one end of the rope. Repeat at the other end of the rope.
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