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Peytwist: Single-column seam

Peyote with a twist — not crochet (Peytwist for short) is a stitch developed by Gerlinde Lenz. It offers two different techniques: the single-column seam (odd number of beads in the circumference) and double-column seam (even number of beads in the circumference). Each technique starts with a flat even-count strip of peyote-stitched beadwork. The width and number of rows in the starter strip can vary between designs.

Starter strip

On a comfortable length of thread, attach a stop bead, leaving a 12-in. (30 cm) tail. Pick up the beads for row 1 and 2 following the desired pattern. Working in flat even-count peyote stitch, continue adding the number of rows needed for the starter strip called out in your pattern. 

Joining the strip

Position your beadwork with the tail in the upper right-hand corner and your working thread in the lower right-hand corner.

With the working thread and leaving the beadwork flat, cross over the beadwork diagonally, and sew through the bead in the upper left-hand corner, with your needle pointing away from the beadwork (FIGURE 1, a–b)

Cross back over the beadwork, and sew through the last bead added (last up-bead) in the last row, with the needle pointing toward the center of the beadwork (b–c). Tighten the beadwork to curve the corners upward and bring them together.

Turn the beadwork so the tail is now positioned downward (FIGURE 2). The darker row of beads are your seam beads.

Pey Twist Single Column Fig 1
Pey Twist Single Column Fig 2
Adding rows 

You will now begin working rows of peyote stitch along the top edge of the tube. When adding rows that go left, the beads will be added as you move up toward the point of the beadwork. When adding rows that go right, the beads will be added as you move down toward the V in the beadwork. As you finish the row heading downward, you will attach it to the seam beads. 

1. Work the next row in peyote stitch to the left (or upward) following the desired pattern: Pick up a bead, and sew through the next bead (FIGURE 3). Continue repeating this stitch until you complete the row, sewing through the bead at the tip for the last stitch (FIGURE 4).

Pey Twist Single Column Fig 3
Pey Twist Single Column Fig 4
2. Work the next row in peyote stitch to the right (or downward) following the desired pattern, stopping before adding the last bead in the row (FIGURE 5).

3. To work the last stitch in the row and work a turn, pick up a bead. If you look at the beads near the V in the beadwork in FIGURE 6, you will notice that the last down-bead (outlined in green) is sitting adjacent to two seam beads (outlined in red). Sew down through the upper of these two seam beads (a–b). Continue up through the following seam bead above the one your thread is exiting (outlined in blue), and sew back through the bead just added to step up and be in position to start the next row (b–c).

4. You are now ready to start the next row. Continue working as in steps 1–3, following the desired pattern for the desired length. End and add thread as needed.
Pey Twist Single Column Fig 5
Pey Twist Single Column Fig 6
Pey Twist Photo A
1. To end the rope, fill in the V area by working additional rows as needed following the established pattern, but work one stitch fewer per row, until you reach the end.

2. Sew through the up-beads at the end of the rope to draw them into a ring, and retrace the thread path to tighten.

3. Pick up five beads, and sew through the opposite bead in the ring to form a loop. Continue back through the beads just added and the bead your thread exited at the start of this step, going in the same direction (PHOTO A). Retrace the thread path through the loop, and end the working thread.

4. Remove the stop bead from the tail. Work as before to add one more downward row, then work to fill in the V area as before and repeat step 3. End the tail.

5. Open a jump ring, and attach half of the clasp to the loop on one end of the rope. Repeat at the other end of the rope.
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