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Low-tide pendant

Display a treasure of texture and sparkle on a wave of epoxy clay


Pendant 2 1⁄2 in. (64 mm)

  • 10 in. (25.4 cm) 21-gauge (3 x 0.72 mm) wire, flat (Artistic Wire, silver plated)
  • 18 in. (45.7 cm) 24-gauge (0.5 mm) wire, round (silver plated)
  • Swarovski Ceralun two-part epoxy clay (silver as shown in the photo, or white if applying mica powder)
  • 30 3–6 mm Xilion chatons (Swarovski #1028, topaz, white opal, and crystal)
  • 2 in. (51 mm) cup chain (Swarovski #27004 with PP24 Xilion crystals, rhodium plated/crystal)
  • 36-in. (91.4 cm) silk ribbon, 1⁄2 in. (13 mm) diameter
  • chainnose pliers
  • roundnose pliers
  • wire cutters
  • 1 1⁄2-in. (38 mm) diameter round mandrel, such as a vitamin bottle
  • 5⁄16-in. (8 mm) diameter round mandrel, such as a pen
  • Teflon sheet
  • disposable gloves
  • craft knife
  • 2 texture stamps
  • baby wipes
  • Crystal Katana or other wax-tip applicator
  • mica powder, soft brush, and soft cloth (optional)

All materials and supplies available at


Low tide pendant Photo A
Photo A
Low tide pendant Photo B
Photo B
Low tide pendant Photo C
Photo C
Low tide pendant Photo D
Photo D
Low tide pendant Photo E
Photo E
Low tide pendant Photo F
Photo F


1. Cut a 10-in. (25.4 cm) piece of flat wire. Mark the wire 1 3⁄4 in. (44 mm) from each end, and place a 1 1⁄2-in. (38 mm) round mandrel at the midpoint. Bring the ends of the wire up and around the mandrel until they cross, and re-move the mandrel. Pinch the wire at the marks to form a teardrop shape (PHOTO A).

2. Cut a 6-in. (15.2 cm) piece of round 24-gauge wire. Leaving a short tail, make seven wraps at the pinch-point from step 1. Trim and tuck the wire tails. Use chainnose pliers to squeeze the wraps tight against each other and the flat wire (PHOTO B).

3. Separate the ends of the flat wire slightly, and use roundnose pliers to form a small loop at each end. The loops should face each other, creating an elongated heart shape (PHOTO C).

4. Place a 5⁄16-in. (8 mm) round mandrel to one side of the wraps made in step 2, and bring the corresponding end of the flat wire around the mandrel until the loop touches the outside of the bezel (PHOTO D). Remove the mandrel, and repeat on the other side of the wraps with the other end of the flat wire.

5. Cut a 6-in. (15.2 cm) piece of 24-gauge wire. Leaving a short tail, make five or six wraps to join the loop on one end of the flat wire to the outside of the bezel. Trim and tuck the wire tails (PHOTO E). Repeat for the other loop.

Epoxy clay

6. Remove the two Ceralun epoxy sticks from the package. Use a craft knife to cut an equal amount of parts A and B (eyeball the amount that might fit in the bezel). Wearing disposable gloves, mix together part A and part B for three to four minutes. 

TIP: Remove rings and protect your work surface with a Teflon sheet. You can work the clay for up to two hours; it takes 24 hours for the clay to cure.

Form the clay into a ball, and then roll it into a short cylindrical shape. Set it aside, and remove your gloves.

7. Choose a texture stamp for the back of the pendant, rinse the stamp under cool water, and shake the excess water from it (do not dry it). Set the stamp impression side up on your work surface, and place the bezel on top of it.

8. Place the clay inside the bezel along the lower edge, and press it around the bezel wall. Continue to spread the clay to create an asymmetrical “shoreline” (PHOTO F). The clay should remain slightly raised above the bezel wall but not spilling over the top edge.

9. Lift the entire piece off your work surface, and carefully peel the texture stamp from the back of the clay. 

TIP: Rinse the stamp in warm, soapy water before the clay has a chance to cure. 

If desired, use a soft brush to apply mica powder to the back of the clay. Do not yet apply mica to the front or the “shoreline”; the crystals and cup chain must be added first.

10. Place a Teflon sheet on your work surface, and place the piece on the Teflon sheet, texture side down. Rinse and shake the other texture stamp as before, and place it on the clay, impression side down. Apply a light to medium pressure evenly across the stamp, being careful not to distort the shape of the “shoreline.” Peel the texture stamp from the front of the clay, and rinse the stamp.

Make sure that the clay is securely adhered to the inside of the bezel, and then use a baby wipe to clean the outside of the bezel. 

Low tide pendant Photo G
Photo G
Low tide pendant Photo H
Photo H


12. Cut a length of cup chain to run along the edge of the “shoreline.” Place the cup chain inside the bezel, and press the side face of the cup chain into the clay (PHOTO G).

13. Using a Crystal Katana, pick up a chaton by touching the wax tip of the tool to the front of the stone. Place the chaton as desired on the clay, and press it down so that the girdle of the crystal (where the color meets the foil) is flush with or slightly below the surface of the clay (PHOTO H).

14. Repeat step 13 until all the chatons are in place, arranging them to your liking. If desired, apply mica powder to the front of the clay; it’s okay if mica powder gets on the chatons. Set the piece aside to cure for 24 hours.

15. Once the piece has cured, you can remove the excess mica powder. Hold the piece under running water for a few seconds, and then buff with a soft cloth to remove the excess mica powder from the chatons.

16. Fold a silk ribbon in half, and thread the ends from back to front through the two loops at the top of the pendant. Pull the ends through the fold, and tighten the ribbon.

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