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Ship's wheel beaded pendant

Cubic right-angle weave steers creativity in the right direction.
Setsail

MATERIALS

pendant 21⁄2 in. (6.4 cm) diameter

  • 1 14 mm rivoli
  • 6 8 mm round gemstone beads
  • 6 5 x 3 mm button pearls
  • 11/0 Japanese seed beads
    • 4 g color A
    • 1 g color C
    • 1 g color D
  • 3 g 15/0 Japanese seed beads, color B
  • nylon beading thread, size B, or Fireline 4 lb. test
  • beading needles, #12
SetsailFigure1
Figure 1
Click on images to enlarge

Rivoli bezel
1. On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread or Fireline, pick up 36 15/0 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through all the beads again to form a ring, and continue through the next few 15/0s.

2. Work one round of tubular peyote stitch using 15/0s, and step up through the first 15/0 in the new round (FIGURE 1, a–b).

3. Work a round of tubular peyote using color C 11/0 seed beads, and step up through the first 11/0 in the new round (b–c).

4. Work two rounds using 15/0s, stepping up after each round (c–d).

5. Place the rivoli face up in the bezel, and work one more round using 15/0s, pulling tight so the beadwork begins to cup. Sew through the 15/0s in the last two rounds of peyote to secure the thread and hold the beads in place. Sew through the beadwork to exit a C 11/0 in the center round. Do not end the thread.

SetsailFigure2
Figure 2

Outer wheel
1. On 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread or Fireline, pick up four color A 11/0 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Sew through the first three beads again to form a ring, exiting the A opposite the tail (FIGURE 2, a–b).

2. Work the second stitch by picking up a color D 11/0 seed bead, an A, and a D. Sew through the A your thread exited at the start of this step, and the next D and A (b–c).

3. Work the next right-angle weave stitch using three As (c–d). 

4. To join the first and last stitch, pick up an A, sew through the end A in the first stitch, pick up an A, and sew through the end A in the last stitch (d–e).

5. Sew through the four As along the edges to reinforce the first unit, and exit a D. 

SetsailPhotoA
Photo A
SetsailPhotoB
Photo B

6. Continue in cubic right-angle weave, using an A, a D, and an A for one stitch, and As for the remaining stitches in each unit to create a stripe along one surface (PHOTO A). Work a total of 42 units.

7. Join the first and last unit by picking up an A, sewing through the end A of the first unit, picking up another A, and sewing through the bead your thread exited in the last stitch (PHOTO B). Complete the last three stitches, reinforce the join, and end the thread.

SetsailPhotoC
Photo C
SetsailPhotoD
Photo D
Assembly
1. Using the working thread from the rivoli bezel, pick up an 8 mm round gemstone, and sew through an 11/0 in the center of the inside surface of the outer wheel, making sure the surface with the stripe is facing front (PHOTO C). Sew back through the 8 mm and the next C in the rivoli bezel (PHOTO D). Sew through the next 15/0, C, 15/0, and C to leave space to add the next 8 mm.
SetsailPhotoE
Photo E
SetsailPhotoF
Photo F

2. Repeat step 1 around the bezel, skipping six center 11/0s in the outer wheel each time you add an 8 mm bead (PHOTO E). 

3. Retrace the thread path through the first 8 mm bead, and sew through the beadwork in the outer wheel to exit the A on the outer surface of the wheel, corresponding to the inner center A. Pick up a pearl and a 15/0. Skip the 15/0, and sew back through the pearl and the A (PHOTO F). Sew through the beadwork in the outer wheel and through the 8 mm and the next C. Repeat to add a pearl embellishment outside the other 8 mm beads. End the thread.

SetsailPhotoG
Photo G
SetsailPhotoH
Photo H
4. Add 24 in. (61 cm) of thread in the outer edge of the wheel, exiting an edge A (PHOTO G). Pick up an A, and sew through the next edge A (PHOTO H). Repeat around the edge, pulling gently to shape the ring, but don’t pull too hard or the ring may buckle. Sew through the beadwork, and repeat on the other edge. Exit one of the As behind a pearl embellishment. 
SetsailPhotoI
Photo I
SetsailPhotoJ
Photo J
5. Work a strip of six regular right-angle weave stitches using As (PHOTO I). Join the strip into a small ring by picking up an A and sewing through the A your thread exited on the wheel at the start of this step. Pick up an A, and sew through the end A in the last stitch. Reinforce the join, and exit the A your thread exited at the start of this step PHOTO J). Sew through an edge A, and add an A between each stitch as you did along the outer edges of the wheel. Repeat on the other edge. End the working thread and tail.

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