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Soft and supple bracelet

This flexible, wearable bracelet adds grace and glamour to any ensemble
A flat bottom surface, shown below, prevents this beautiful bracelet from turning over on your wrist. The crystals suspended between zigzagging lines of seed beads create an elegant embellishment.


bracelet 8 in. (20cm)

  • 70–80 4mm bicone or round crystals, or glass beads
  • 5g size 8/0 Japanese seed, cylinder, or hex-cut beads
  • 10g size 11/0 seed beads in each of 2 colors: A, B
  • clasp
  • 2 crimp beads
  • 2 crimp covers (optional)
  • Nymo D and Fireline 6 lb. test
  • 12 in. (30cm) flexible beading wire, .012
  • beading needles, #12
  • crimping pliers
  • wire cutters



1. Cut 12 in. (30cm) of beading wire. On one end, string a crimp bead and half of a clasp. Go back through the crimp bead (PHOTO A), and crimp it.

2. String enough 8/0 seed beads on the wire to fit around your wrist. The bracelet lies best when it’s worn close to the wrist, so don’t make it too big. Temporarily secure the end of the wire with tape or a bead stopper, leaving a little wiggle room (approximately one bead’s width) for construction (PHOTO B).

3. Thread a needle on 2–3 yd. (1.8–2.7m) of Nymo. Secure the Nymo to the beading wire with a few half-hitch knots between beads, exiting between the first two base beads at the crimped end.

Click on images to enlarge.

4. Pick up six color B 11/0s, and sew through the first two 8/0s on the base (FIGURE 1, a–b) to make two side-by-side stacks of three 11/0s.

5. Pick up three Bs, sew down through the previous stack of 11/0s, and continue through the next two base 8/0s (b–c). Using moderate tension, repeat along the length of the base. The beadwork will curl but will flatten out as you add the crystal embellishment. At the end of the base, sew back up through the last stack.


6. Pick up three color A 11/0s, and sew under the thread bridge between the last two stacks of Bs (PHOTO C AND FIGURE 2, a–b).

7. Repeat step 6 along the entire row of stacked Bs. Reinforce the zigzag embellishment by sewing back through all the As, sewing over the thread bridges that you sewed under when you added the As.

Pick up three As, and, going in the opposite direction, sew under the next thread bridge (PHOTO D AND FIGURE 2 b–c).

8. Adding thread as needed, repeat steps 4–7 to make a second row of stacked 11/0s along the length of the band. Pay close attention as you begin making the zigzag in step 6, as the points must go in the opposite direction of those on the first row (FIGURE 3). At the end of this row, remove the tape from the beading wire. String a crimp bead and the other half of the clasp, and go back through the crimp bead and a few 8/0s. Being careful not to snug up the base row too much, crimp the crimp bead. Trim the excess wire. (You can wait until after the third row is added to crimp the second end, but it’s easier to get the tail of the beading wire back through the 8/0s at this point.)

9. Repeat steps 4–7 to make a third row. Make sure the points of the zigzag go in the opposite direction of the points in the adjacent row. Secure the tails with a few half-hitch knots, and trim.


1. Secure 2 yd. (1.8m) of Fireline in the beadwork and exit the middle A of the first point on the center row.


2. Pick up a 4mm crystal or glass bead, and sew through the middle A on the opposite point (FIGURE 4, a–b). Sew back through the 4mm and the A on the center row (b–c).

3. Following the zigzag pattern in the center row, sew through the next three As (c–d).

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 (d–e) for the length of the band. Secure the tails, and trim.

5. If desired, cover the crimp beads with crimp covers.

Because I tend to stitch tightly, my first attempts at this bracelet didn’t turn out so well. I really had to ease up on my tension to achieve the desired results.
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