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Floral beaded leather cuff

At first glance, this fetching floral cuff appears to be bead embroidery, but don’t be fooled
Floral beaded leather cuff key

The dramatic elements in this bracelet are stitched separately and then sewn to a suede or leather cuff and embellished with a few simple back-stitched swirls.

SUPPLIES

Bracelet 7 1⁄4 in. (18.4 cm)

  • 2 10 x 2 1⁄2-in. (25 x 6.4 cm) strips of suede, leather, or Ultrasuede
  • 2 4 mm pearls (Swarovski, antique gold)
  • 3 mm pearl (Swarovski, antique gold)
  • 7 3 mm bicone crystals (Swarovski, turquoise AB2X)
  • 8/0 seed beads
    • 2 g color C (Miyuki 1052, galvanized gold)
    • 1 g color H (Miyuki 457L, metallic light bronze) 
    • 4 g color I (Toho 1700, gilded marble white)
    • 1 g color K (Miyuki 2426, silver-lined Montana blue)
  • 11/0 seed beads
    • 8 g color A (Toho 512F, metallic nickel-plated sage)
    • 2 g color D (Toho 1201, marbled opaque beige)
    • 9 g color E (Toho 46L, opaque terra cotta)
    • 6 g color F (Toho 152F, matte transparent grey AB)
    • 6 g color H (Miyuki 457L, metallic light bronze)
    • 2 g color L (Miyuki 592, antique ivory pearl Ceylon)
  • 15/0 seed beads
    • 3 g color B (Miyuki 2008, matte metallic patina)
    • 3 g color G (Miyuki 429, opaque salmon)
    • 5 g color H (Miyuki 457L, metallic light bronze)
    • 1 g color J (Miyuki 2002, matte metallic silver grey)
    • 3 g color M (Miyuki 551, Ceylon silver)
    • 2 g color N (Miyuki 003, silver-lined gold)
  • 10 mm snap
  • Fireline 6 lb. test
  • nylon beading thread
  • beading needles, #12
  • glovers needles, #12

Complete kits are available in several color combinations at tamarascottdesigns.net.


INSTRUCTIONS

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 1
Figure 1

Vine

1. On 1 yd. (.9 m) of Fireline, pick up a color B 15/0 seed bead and a color A 11/0 seed bead, and sew through the B again (FIGURE 1, a–b), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail.

2. Pick up a B and an A, sew down through the A added in the previous stitch (b–c), and sew up through the B added in the previous stitch and the B just picked up (c–d). Repeat this stitch for a total of 10 rows. The vine will begin to curve.

3. Continue to work the vine:

Rows 11–27: Work as in step 2 using all As. This will create a straight section in the vine.

Rows 28–34: Work as in step 2, but flip-flop the As and Bs to form a curve going in the opposite direction of the first curve.

Rows 35–48: Use all As.

Rows 49–55: Work as in step 2.

Rows 56–71: Use all As.

Rows 72–78: Work as in step 2, but flip-flop the As and Bs.

Rows 79–95: Use all As.

Rows 96–102: Work as in step 2, and end the threads.

 
Floral beaded leather cuff figure 2
Figure 2

Leaves

1. On 12 in. (30 cm) of nylon thread, pick up two Bs, and sew through the first B again (FIGURE 2, a–b), leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail.

2. Pick up two As, and sew through the Bs in the previous row and the first A just added (b–c).

3. Pick up two As, and sew through the As in the previous row and the first A just added (c–d).

4. Pick up two Bs, and sew through the As in the previous row and the first B just added (d–e).

5. Pick up a B, and sew through the next B in the previous row (e–f) and the rest of the beads in the column (f–g).

6. Pick up an A, and sew through the adjacent B (g–h). End the threads.

7. Make a total of six leaves.

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 3
Figure 3

Large flower

1. On 1 yd. (.9 m) of nylon thread, pick up a color E 11/0 seed bead and a color C 8/0 seed bead, and sew through the E again, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. 

2. Pick up an E and a C, and sew down through the C in the previous row, up through the E in the previous row, and up through the E just added. Repeat this step for a total of 12 rows.

3. Join the ends to form a ring: Sew through the first two Es at the starting end of the strip (FIGURE 3, a–b), and sew through the first two Cs in the opposite direction (b–c). Sew through the last two Cs on the other end of the strip (c–d), being careful not to twist the strip. Sew back through the last two Es on this end of the strip (d–e). Retrace the thread path to secure, and sew through the beadwork to exit an E on the inside of the ring. The Es will sit up on the Cs.

4. Pick up a 4 mm pearl, and sew through an E on the opposite side of the ring. Sew back through the 4 mm and the E your thread exited at the start of this step. Retrace the thread path, and sew through the beadwork to exit a C.

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 4
Figure 4

5. Pick up two color F 11/0 seed beads, and sew through the C your thread exited at the start of this step and the next two Cs in the ring (FIGURE 4, a–b). Repeat this step to complete the round, and step up through the first two Fs added in this step (b–c).

6. Pick up two color G 15/0 seed beads, and sew through the previous two beads and the first G just added (c–d). Repeat this step two more times (d–e). 

7. Pick up a G and a color D 11/0 seed bead, and sew through the previous two beads and the G just added. Repeat this step four more times (e–f).

8. Pick up two Gs, and sew through the previous two beads and the first G just added. Repeat this step two more times (f–g).

9. To form a petal, sew through the next two Fs along the outer edge of the original ring (g–h) and the last two Gs added in step 8. Retrace the thread path, and exit the inside G in the last stitch added in step 8 (h–i).

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 5
Figure 5

10. Pick up three Gs, and sew through the corresponding G on the other side of the petal (FIGURE 5, a–b). Pick up three Gs, skip the next two Gs along the inside edge of the petal, and sew through the next G (b–c). Repeat this last stitch twice, but in the first repeat skip three Gs (c–d), and in the second repeat skip two Gs, and then step up through the first two Gs added in this step (d–e). 

11. Sew through the center G in each set of three picked up in step 10 (e–f). Retrace the thread path through all four center Gs. Sew through the beadwork to exit the next pair of Fs along the outer edge of the original ring.

12. Repeat steps 6–11 five times, and end the threads.

Medium flower

1. On 18 in. (46 cm) of nylon thread, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail, work as in steps 1–4 of “Large flower” using color H 11/0 seed beads and color K 8/0 seed beads.

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 6
Figure 6

2. With the thread exiting a K, pick up two color J 15/0 seed beads, and sew through the K again and the first J just added (FIGURE 6, a–b).

3. Pick up two color I 8/0 seed beads, and sew through the previous two Js and the first I just added (b–c). Pick up an F, and sew through the two Is added in this step (c–d).

4. Pick up five Fs, and sew through the next I (d–e), the following J, the K your thread exited in step 2, and the next two Ks in the original ring (e–f).

5. Repeat steps 2–4 for a total of six petals. End the threads.

6. Repeat steps 1–5 to make another medium flower, but substitute Gs for Js, Hs for Ks, and a 3 mm pearl for the 4 mm pearl.

Small flower

1. On 18 in. (46 cm) of nylon thread, pick up 10 color B 15/0 seed beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. Tie the beads into a ring with a square knot, and sew through the next three Bs in the ring, tugging gently on the working thread to hide the knot in a bead.

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 7
Figure 7

2. Pick up two color H 11/0 seed beads, sew through the next B in the ring and the B your thread exited at the start of this step, and then sew through the first H just added (FIGURE 7, a–b).

3. Pick up a color N 15/0 seed bead, and sew through the previous two Hs (b–c).

4. Pick up five Ns, sew through the adjacent H, the two Bs sewn through in step 2, and the next two Bs in the original ring (c–d).

5. Repeat steps 2–4 for a total of five petals.

6. With the thread exiting a B in the original ring, pick up a 3 mm bicone crystal, sew through a B on the opposite side of the ring, and sew back through the 3 mm and the B your thread exited at the start of this step. End the threads.

7. Repeat steps 1–6 for a total of three small flowers.

8. Repeat steps 1–6 to make three more flowers, but substitute color M 15/0 seed beads for the center N in step 3 and color L 11/0 seed beads for the Ns in step 4.

Band

1. Measure your wrist. Cut a 2 1⁄4-in. (5.7 cm) wide band of suede, leather, or Ultrasuede that is equal to the length of your wrist plus 2 in. (5 cm). If desired, round one end by trimming the corners.

2. Cut a second band exactly the same size for the backing.

3. Determine which side of the top band is the front, and place the vine in the desired position. Tie a knot at one end of 12 in. (30 m) of nylon thread, and thread a #12 glovers needle on the other end. Tack the vine to the top band by sewing from back to front through the band near the center of the vine. Sew over the thread bridge between a 15/0 and an 11/0, and then sew back down through the band. Repeat two or three times to secure the center of the vine, and end the thread by tying a knot on the back side of the band.

4. Repeat step 3 for each of the curves in the vine. End the thread after each curve; do not run it across the back of the band as this will cause it to pucker. Make sure the vine lies flat on the band.

5. Working in beaded backstitch, sew a swirl at each end of the vine using As and Bs, and end the thread after each one. 

6. Position the other components as desired, and tack them down to the top band, working from one end of the band to the other.

7. Position the ball half of the snap at the center of the straight end on the top side of the band, approximately 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm) from the edge, and sew it in place securely.

8. Determine the outer surface of the backing band. Mark the desired position of the socket half of the snap on the outer surface of the backing in the center near the curved end. Align the backing and the embroidered top band back to back, checking that the ball half of the snap lines up with the mark for the socket half.

9. Sew the socket half of the snap in place securely.

Floral beaded leather cuff figure 8
Figure 8

Edging

1. Position the top and bottom bands back to back, matching the edges. Add 2 yd. (1.8 m) of nylon thread by sewing through the top band from back to front and making several small stitches along the edge, leaving a 2-in. (5 cm) tail. 

2. Pick up a color E 11/0 seed bead, a color H 15/0 seed bead, and an E, and sew down through both layers of the band from front to back. Sew back through the last E added, and snug up the beads (FIGURE 8, a–b).

3. Pick up an H and an E, and sew through both layers of the band from front to back about 3 mm from where your thread exited. Sew back through the last E (b–c).

4. Repeat step 3 for the entire edge of the bracelet. End the thread.

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