3. Work rows of peyote stitch as follows:
Row 1: Pick up an A 11/0, and sew back through the last A 11/0 added in the previous step (FIGURE 4, a–b). Using A 11/0s and tight tension, work ten more stitches off of the remaining 11/0s added in the previous step (b–c).
Row 2: Turn, and work 11 stitches using A 11/0s (FIGURE 5, a–b).
Row 3: Work 11 stitches using 8/0 seed beads (b–c).
Row 4: Work 11 stitches, alternating an 8/0 and a 3 x 10 mm dagger bead. End with an 8/0 (c–d).
4. Flip the bezel to work on the back side. Sew counterclockwise around the bezel to exit the 11/0 in the original RAW strip that is directly opposite the one you exited in step 1. This ensures that both halves of the dragon body will match up.
5. Work as in step 2 and then work rows 1–3 of step 3 on this side of the bezel.
6. If desired, cut a small piece of plastic wrap, and roll it to fit inside the two halves of the dragon body. Zip up the two halves of the body, and retrace the thread path twice.
7. Hold the beadwork so you are looking down through the body, with the front of the focal facing to the left. On this end of the body, you should have five thread bridges:
- one between the bezel and the left A 11/0 (FIGURE 6, a–b)
- one between the left A 11/0 and the left 8/0 (c–d)
- one between the left and right 8/0s (e–f)
- one between the right 8/0 and the right A 11/0 (g–h)
- one between the right A 11/0 and the bezel (i–j)
These thread bridges should already be in place as a result of stitching the body and zipping the halves. However, if any thread bridges are missing, sew through the beadwork as necessary to create them. Exit the right 8/0, between the 8/0 and the 11/0, on this end.