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Wire mesh and peyote bangle

Learn a new method for odd-count peyote stitch while creating a wire mesh bangle that’s so hot it’s cool!

SUPPLIES

Lilac cuff 2 1⁄4-in. (5.7 cm) inside diameter, 7-in. (18 cm) circumference

  • 9 in. (23 cm) 32-gauge tight-knit tubular mesh (WireKnitZ, #3000 series, lilac) 
  • 8–10 in. (20–25 cm) extended 4 mm cup chain (Swarovski 27104-PP32)
  • 288 2 mm glass pearls (Czech, faint rose)
  • 8–10 g 11/0 cylinder beads (Miyuki DB0541, higher metallic white gold/lavender AB)
  • 1 g 15/0 seed beads (Toho 928, purple-lined rosaline AB)
  • nylon beading thread to match beads and mesh
  • beading needles, #11
  • flush wire cutters
  • T-pin (optional) 

INSTRUCTIONS

wire mesh bangle a
Photo a

Preparing the mesh cuff

1.
Spread out a 9-in. (23 cm) tube of wire mesh on your work surface. Using your fingers, smooth down the folds so the mesh forms a larger tube, making sure there are no creases (PHOTO A).

2. Locate the center of the mesh tube, and mark it with a T-pin or needle (PHOTO B). Thread a needle on 12 in. (30 cm) of thread in a color that contrasts with the mesh, and with long running stitches, sew in and out of the mesh around the center of the tube (PHOTO C). Adjust the tension so there is approximately 2–3 in. (5–7.6 cm) of ease on each end of the thread, and then tie the ends together with a square knot. Trim the ends close to the knot.

wire mesh bangle b
Photo b
wire mesh bangle c
Photo c
3. On one end of the tube, fold the mesh down 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm). Do not crease the fold. Repeat this step until the bottom of the fold is about 1⁄2 in. (1.3 cm) from the center thread.
wire mesh bangle d
Photo d
wire mesh bangle e
Photo e

4. Repeat step 3 on the other end of the mesh tube (PHOTO D).

5. As is, the inside diameter of the cuff is 2 1⁄4 in. (5.7 cm). If your hand is larger, you will need to stretch it to the proper fit: Place the cuff with one folded end down on your work surface. Place your fingers inside the cuff and your thumbs on the outside (PHOTO E). Working around the cuff, gently pull the mesh outward. Stop and test the fit. You want the cuff to be able to slide over your hand, but you don’t want it too big. Stretch until you have the desired fit.

Peyote band

The following instructions are for Cynthia’s odd-count peyote stitch technique, which avoids the figure-8 turn and the thread-catch method. 

1. On a comfortable length of thread, pick up 14 11/0 cylinder beads, leaving a 6-in. (15 cm) tail. These beads will form the first two rows as the third row is added.

wire mesh bangle fig
Figure

2. Work rows 3–15 as follows using cylinders:

Row 3: Skip the last two cylinders, and sew back through the next cylinder (FIGURE, a–b). Work five peyote stitches (Basics) using one cylinder per stitch. Pick up a cylinder, turn, and sew through the first cylinder picked up in step 1 (b–c). Adjust the tension.

Row 4: Working off of the beads in row 1, work six stitches (c–d).

Row 5: Work six stitches, and step down through the closest cylinder (d–e). Turn, work one stitch, and step up (e–f).

Rows 6 and 7: Work five stitches in row 6 (f–g). Turn, work five stitches in row 7, and then step down through the closest cylinder in row 5 (g–h). Work one stitch to complete row 6, turn, work two stitches to complete row 7, and step up (h–i).

Rows 8 and 9: Work four stitches in row 8. Turn, work four stitches in row 9, and then step down through the closest cylinder in row 7. Work two stitches to complete row 8, turn, work three stitches to complete row 9, and step up.

Rows 10 and 11: Work three stitches in row 10. Turn, work three stitches in row 11, and step down through the closest cylinder in row 9. Work three stitches to complete row 10, turn, work four stitches to complete row 11, and step up.

Rows 12 and 13: Work two stitches in row 12. Turn, work two stitches in row 13, and step down through the closest cylinder in row 11. Work four stitches to complete row 12, turn, work five stitches to complete row 13, and step up.

Rows 14 and 15: Work one stitch in row 14. Turn, work one stitch in row 15, and step down through the closest cylinder in row 13. Work five stitches to complete row 14, turn, work six stitches to complete row 15, and step down through the end bead in row 13. Turn, and sew through the end bead in row 15.

3. Repeat rows 4–15 to make a strip long enough to wrap around the cuff without squeezing. End with an even number of rows. End the tail but not the working thread.

wire mesh bangle f
Photo f
wire mesh bangle g
Photo g

Cup chain embellishment

1. Use flush cutters to trim the metal tab off one end of the cup chain.

2. Add 2 yd. (1.8 m) of thread to the end of the peyote band opposite the working thread, and sew through the beadwork to exit the third cylinder in the eighth row from the end with the needle pointing toward the other edge (PHOTO F). You will attach the cup chain between the two center cylinders indicated in PHOTO G.

3. Place the cup chain on the peyote band, aligning the metal tab between the end cups with the bead your thread is exiting. Sew over the metal tab and through the next cylinder in the same row.

wire mesh bangle h
Photo h
wire mesh bangle i
Photo i

4. Pick up 10 2 mm pearls, wrap the pearls around the end cup, and sew through the first three pearls again (PHOTO H), forming a ring of pearls around the cup. Retrace the thread path using a firm tension, and exit the two pearls that sit over the metal tab between the two cups (PHOTO I).

5. Sew through the closest cylinder in the peyote band with the needle pointing toward the opposite edge. Sew under the metal tab between the two end cups, and sew through the next cylinder in the same row. Sew through the two pearls that sit over the metal tab to secure the cup chain and pearls to the band.

wire mesh bangle j
Photo j
wire mesh bangle k
Photo k

6. Pick up eight pearls, and sew through the two pearls your thread exited at the start of this step, forming a ring of pearls around the next cup in the chain (PHOTO J). Sew through the next five pearls to exit the two pearls that sit over the next metal tab between the cups.

7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the embellished cup chain is as long as the peyote band, leaving the last cup unembellished for now (PHOTO K). Curve the peyote band as you stitch, stretching the cup chain to its fullest extent while sewing through the cylinders closest to the metal tabs as you secure the cup chain to the band. Do not cut the cup chain, and do not end the thread.

wire mesh bangle l
Photo l
wire mesh bangle m
Photo m

Assembly

1. Wrap the peyote band around the center of the cuff to test the fit. Add or remove rows as needed. Now count the number of cups around your peyote band, including the unembellished last cup. Ideally you want to end with an even number of cups; for instance, our 75⁄8-in. (19.4 cm) peyote band has 32 cups.

2. Once your band is the desired length and you have one cup remaining to embellish, you need to anchor the thread you will use in “Peyote band edging.” Thread a needle on 1 1⁄2 yd. (1.4 m) of thread, and sew through an edge cylinder approximately 1⁄4 in. (6 mm) from one end, with the needle pointing toward the opposite edge (PHOTO L). Sew through the beadwork to exit the corresponding edge cylinder on the other edge of the band, and center the thread in the band so you have an equal length of thread exiting each edge of the band. Set these threads aside for now. 

3. Wrap the peyote band around the mesh cuff. With the working thread from the peyote band, zip up the ends of the band (PHOTO M), and test the fit. Retrace the thread path to secure, and end this thread.

wire mesh bangle n
Photo n
wire mesh bangle o
Photo o

4. Using wire cutters, trim the cup chain so one cup remains to be embellished.

5. With the thread from “Cup chain embellishment,” pick up three pearls, and sew through the two pearls at the end of the first cup (PHOTO N). Pick up three pearls, and sew through the two pearls your thread exited at the start of this step. Retrace the thread path to secure the join. Do not end the thread.

Pearl points

Remember, if you have an uneven number of cups in your cup chain, see above to adapt the following instructions.

1. Sew through the pearls lining the edge of the cup chain to exit the first pearl in a three-pearl set with your needle pointing toward the next pearl in this set. 

2. Pick up a 15/0 seed bead, a pearl, and a 15/0, skip the next pearl, and sew through the following pearl to make a pearl point (PHOTO O).

wire mesh bangle p
Photo p
wire mesh bangle q
Photo q

3. Sew through the next three-pearl set and the first pearl in the following three-pearl set (PHOTO P). 

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to add a pearl point to every other cup in the chain, and then add pearl points to the other edge of the same cups you just embellished. End this thread.

Peyote band edging

1. Center the peyote band on the mesh cuff, using the running stitch marker as a guide. With one end of the thread you anchored in step 2 of “Assembly,” pick up a 15/0, sew under the nearest thread bridge in the peyote band, and sew down through the corresponding opening in the mesh (PHOTO Q). Sew back up through an adjacent opening in the mesh and under the same thread bridge in the band, making sure to catch the mesh in the stitch to anchor the band to the cuff.

2. Continue to work as in step 1 for the entire length of this edge of the peyote band, making sure it is centered on the cuff. Don’t catch the folded edges of the cuff in your stitches. End the working thread.

3. Thread a needle on the tail, and repeat steps 1 and 2 for the other edge of the band. End the thread.

4. Remove the center thread added in step 2 of “Preparing the cuff.”

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