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Coiled butterfly bracelet

Use a chain mail variation to form a butterfly motif

The base of this bracelet is made using the gridlock pattern (a European 4-in-1 variation) and results in a butterfly-like motif when embellished with jump ring “coils.”

Read the project instructions below, or click here for the free project PDF, which includes additional information on design options.

Materials

Bracelet 7 1⁄2 x 3⁄4 in. (19.1 cm x 19 mm)

  • Aluminum jump rings
    • 4–7 16-gauge (1.3 mm), 4.4 mm inner diameter (ID)
    • 13 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 7.1 mm ID
    • 26 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 6.7 mm ID
    • 14 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 4.4 mm ID
  • Enameled jump rings
    • 52 19-gauge (0.9 mm), 4.8 mm ID
    • 52 20-gauge (0.8 mm), 3.2 mm ID
  • Toggle clasp
  • In this project, you’ll use six types of jump rings in various diameters and gauges, and some of the rings are aluminum while others are enameled. To differentiate between the rings, we’ll use the following shorthand. Note: These alphabetical designations apply to this story only and should not be confused with alphabetical size designations used by vendors that sell jump rings. For instance, the A rings below may be sold as size G16 jump rings.

  • A rings = 16-gauge (1.3 mm), 4.4 mm ID aluminum rings
  • B rings = 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 4.4 mm ID aluminum rings
  • C rings = 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 7.1 mm ID aluminum rings
  • D rings = 19-gauge (0.9 mm), 4.8 mm ID enameled rings
  • E rings = 18-gauge (1.0 mm), 6.7 mm ID aluminum rings
  • F rings = 20-gauge (0.8 mm), 3.2 mm ID enameled rings
Coiled butterfly bracelet 1
Step 1
Coiled butterfly bracelet 2
Step 2

1. Open all the A jump rings (Basics). Create a 1+1 chain using two to five A rings. Slide an A ring through one end of the chain and the loop of a toggle bar, and close the ring (1). Set aside for step 7. Slide an A ring through the loop of the toggle ring, and close it.

2. Open all the B rings and C rings. Close all the D rings. Slide a B ring through the A ring attached to the toggle loop, and add two D rings (2). Close the B ring.

Coiled butterfly bracelet 3
Step 3
Coiled butterfly bracelet 4
Step 4

3. Pinch the B ring between your thumb and forefinger, and separate the D rings. The next ring will go through the D rings following the path shown by the arrow (3).

4. Slide a C ring through two new D rings and through the separated D rings from the previous step (4). Close the C ring.

Coiled butterfly bracelet 5
Step 5
Coiled butterfly bracelet 6
Step 6

5. Pinch the C ring between your thumb and forefinger, and separate the D rings. The next ring will go through the D rings following the path shown by the arrow (5). Note that the path is different from step 3.

6. Slide a B ring through two new D rings and through the separated D rings from the previous step (6). Close the B ring.

Coiled butterfly bracelet 7a
Step 7a
7. Repeat steps 3–6 until the chain has an alternating pattern of 14 B rings and 13 C rings (7a).
Coiled butterfly bracelet 7b
Step 7b
Coiled butterfly bracelet 8
Step 8

Before closing the final B ring, slide on the final A ring of the toggle bar chain (7b). Close the B ring.

For the remaining steps, position the chain so that the B rings are on the top.

8. Open all the E rings. Close all the F rings. Slide an E ring through a D ring at one end of the chain, add four F rings, and slide the E ring through the next D ring in the chain (8). Close the E ring.

Coiled butterfly bracelet 10
Step 10
Coiled butterfly bracelet 9
Step 9

9. Slide an E ring through the D ring at the same end of the chain but on the opposite side, go through the four F rings added in the previous step, and slide the E ring through the next D ring (9). Close the E ring.

10. Work as in steps 8 and 9 for the length of the bracelet (10).

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