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Wired spiral ring

Wire wrap gemstones into nature-inspired jewelry

When I make my rings, I see fiddlehead fronds in the spirals. The gemstones evoke the colors and romance of vibrant sunsets, golden woods, and starry nights. Create your own landscape around this swirling wire ring with a favorite focal bead accented by colored gemstones.

View the steps to this project in the gallery below, and download the free project PDF here for tips on making spirals, using a cup bur and determining your ring size.

Supplies

  • 10 mm teardrop bead
  • 5 3 mm round gemstone beads
  • 9 in. (23 cm) 16-gauge dead soft Argentium or sterling silver wire
  • 4 1⁄2 ft. (1.37 m) 26-gauge gold wire
  • ring mandrel
  • 10 mm mandrel or stepped wire-wrapping pliers
  • chainnose and roundnose pliers
  • diagonal wire cutters
  • pin vise and cup bur or emery board
  • rubber or rawhide mallet
  • chasing hammer and bench block
  • tumble polisher (optional)

Silver wire from Rio Grande, 800.545.6566, riogrande.com. Gold wire from Artbeads.com, 866.715.2323.

Instructions:

Wired spiral ring 1
Step 1
Wired spiral ring 2
Step 2
1. Cut a 9-in. (23 cm) piece of 16-gauge wire. Curve the wire in half around a 10 mm mandrel or wire-wrapping pliers. Position the large end of a teardrop bead in the fold, shape the wire around the bead, and at the tip, bend the wires so they are parallel.

2. Determine the ring size. Position the wire’s fold one notch larger than that size on a ring mandrel. Wrap the wire ends around the mandrel. Leave 1 1⁄2 in. (3.8 cm) beyond the point where the wires overlap and trim the ends. Use a pin vise and cup bur or emery board to smooth the wire ends.
Wired spiral ring 3
Step 3
Wired spiral ring 4
Step 4
3. Keeping the ring on the mandrel, use a rubber or rawhide mallet to gently hammer the wire to harden it.
 
4. Form a spiral with the top wire, rotating it until it is even with the teardrop shape. Form a smaller spiral on the second wire, leaving a bit of space next to the first spiral.
Wired spiral ring 5
Step 5
Wired spiral ring 6
Step 6
5. Using a chasing hammer, gently hammer the spirals on a bench block to flatten and texture them. 

6. Cut a 4-ft. (1.22 m) piece of 26-gauge wire. Form a small hook on one end and hook it over one side of the frame about 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) from the midpoint of the teardrop shape. Wrap the wire around the frame toward the midpoint. At the midpoint, string the teardrop.


Wired spiral ring 7
Step 7
Wired spiral ring 8
Step 8

7a. Keeping the teardrop centered, wrap the wire over the top and around the frame four times as shown.

b. String a 3 mm bead. Wrap over and around the opposite side of the frame four times. Go back across the first side of the frame and wrap four times. Repeat.

8. Omitting the 3 mms, continue wrapping as in step 7b, alternating sides until you reach the edge of the first spiral. To snug the wraps, use chainnose pliers to squeeze the wraps together as you go.   

Wired spiral ring 9
Step 9
Wired spiral ring 10
Step 10

9. String and wrap three 3 mms as in step 7b. Continue wrapping around the longer wire of the frame until you reach the midpoint below the last spiral. Trim the excess wrapping wire and tuck the ends to the frame.

10. Cut a 6-in. (15 cm) piece of 26-gauge wire. Form a small hook in the wire and hook it around the frame toward the tip of the teardrop on the opposite side from where you began in step 6. Wrap the wire around the frame four times. Wrap around the wire exiting the teardrop bead, then back around the same side of the frame four times. Trim and tuck the excess wire. Tumble polish the ring if desired.

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